Allied Inspired Buchanan Dressing Gown

Have you seen the film Allied? If you’re a fan of 1940s fashion then you really ought to check it out. Set in 1942, it stars Marion Cotillard and Brad Pitt as a Resistance fighter and Intelligence officer and is full of intrigue and tension. The plot really has you guessing until the end but it’s the clothes, worn by Marion, which stole the show for me. The costume designer, Joanna Johnston, modelled the designs on original vintage pieces.

The costume that really caught my attention was the dressing gown that Marion’s character, Marianne, wears on the roof of their Casablancan apartment. It’s a gorgeous floaty, romantic silk number.

I decided to have a go at making a version for myself using The Buchanan pattern by Gather Kits. The original pattern stops mid-thigh so I lengthened it to finish just above the floor. I wanted to keep the floaty, cool feel of the original gown so decided that a crepe would work best. 

I found this lovely blue floral crepe at Sew Over It which I felt had a vintage feel to it. I was undecided about which colour to use for the trim, cuffs and waist sash so the lovely ladies at Sew Over It sent me some samples of crepe in ivory, grey, red and deep blue. I decided to go for the ivory as I felt it kept the gown feeling a little lighter.

The pattern also features belt and hanging loops and a choice of inseam or patch pockets. I didn’t want to bulk up the side seams with pockets so I made the patch pockets, however, I’ve only sewn one on so far. I’m not entirely sure the crepe hangs that nicely as a pocket and I still might unpick it!

To keep everything looking neat inside I used French Seams throughout including the sleeves – it took some internet head scratching to work that one out! They are a little large but, overall, I’m happy with how it looks. This was my first big project using French Seams so I’m not going to beat myself up over it!

And just to prove that everything doesn't always run smoothly, just a day after finishing the gown I decided to give it a quick press. Without thinking I set the iron to number three and, yes, burnt a hole in the sleeve! I was so annoyed with myself for not checking the iron. Luckily I had just enough fabric left to cut another sleeve but I had to unpick the French Seam I'd sewn around the armhole. In the end I was glad I replaced it as the new topstitching is much neater than the original.

I love wafting around our flat wearing this gown, I’m very aware that I don’t look anywhere near as glamorous as Marion Cotillard does, but one can pretend eh?

If you're interested in reading more about the costumes in this film then read this interview with the designer, Joanna Johnston, where she discusses her inspiration for the film and if you haven't seen the film then I suggest you do pronto! 

All Allied movie photos are copyright Paramount Pictures.